The Goldendoodles ancestry along both parent lines is as hunters and water dogs. The physical appearance of the Goldendoodle runs anywhere from a shaggy-looking retriever to a curl-relaxed poodle, but usually it falls somewhere in between. The length when left unclipped grows to about 4-8 inches. The color of the coat can be cream, red, white, gold, apricot, chocolate and black. Most Goldendoodles have a Standard Poodle as a parent, and are standard sized. Those with a miniature Poodle as a parent are about 25-45 pounds and are called miniature Goldendoodles. Like many poodle crosses, most F1 Goldendoodles are light to moderate-shedding, and most live easily with families with MILD allergies. Families with moderate to severe allergies often find that Goldendoodle backcrosses (F1B) or second Generation (F2B) Goldendoodles work well.

Temperament

Goldendoodles are an intelligent and obedient family companion. They are everybody's friend and devoted to their family. They are friendly towards children, other dogs and pets, and easy with strangers. They are social dogs, happiest when with people. Goldendoodles are likely to get into mischief and develop behavior problems if they spend most of their lives alone. Their intelligence, eagerness to please, and love of learning make them very easy to train. They are medium-to large sized family dogs with easy dispositions. 

Height, Weight

Standard Goldendoodles are a medium to large sized dog about the size of a Standard Poodle, perhaps more robust. 

Height:  Males 21-27 inches    Females 20-23½ inches
Weight: Males 35-75 pounds   Females 30-65 pounds

While the average Goldendoodle seems to be in the range of the above sizes, some have been known to grow to over 100 pounds.  At Moss Creek Goldendoodles, we chose small Standards for our parent dogs and some of our small Standard puppies are 30-40 pounds. 

Mini Goldendoodles are a small to medium sized dog, depending on the Poodle used to sire the litters. Toy Poodles will produce smaller litters than Miniature Poodle studs. There can be a large difference in size of the pups. 

Height: 13" - 21" tall
Weight: 25 - 40 lbs

Health Concerns

As a hybrid cross they grow healthier and live longer than either parent line. The only genetic diseases they can be prone to would be those shared by both the Golden Retriever and the Standard Poodle. No Major Concerns. Minor Concerns - CHD, PRA, VonWillibrands, Elbow and patella disorders.  Suggested tests - hip and eye.

Living Conditions & Exercise

Goldendoodles require a moderate amount of exercise and their coats are generally low maintenance. They can live in the city or on a farm. They are social dogs and they are happiest when they are with people.

Life Expectancy

About 15 years

Grooming

As a hybrid cross, Goldendoodles will inherit fur that looks retriever-like or poodle-like, but usually something in-between. Unclipped Goldendoodles will have hair about 4-7 inches long, shorter on the face and longer on the body, tail and legs. They require brushing every few days. Depending on how often the dog is groomed.  Clipped Goldendoodles are groomed several times a year. More info on grooming your Goldendoodle! 

Origin

As the smaller poodle hybrids had been such a success in filling the niche for small, allergy friendly family pets, Golden Retriever breeders decided to try a breeding with a standard Poodle for a larger family pet. A Goldendoodle is a Golden Retriever and Poodle cross.  Goldendoodles are also called Golden Poos, Goldie Poos, or Groodles.  They have been bred in North America since the mid-1990.  The quick rise of the popularity of Goldendoodles is due to the dogs themselves. They are a most marvelous hybrid. Goldendoodles are a first generation cross, and as such they exhibit hybrid vigor. This is a phenomenon in animal breeding referring to the fact that the first cross between two unrelated purebred lines is healthier and grows better than either parent line. The hybrid cross between these two parent breeds is terrific family dogs, friendly, intelligent, affectionate and easy to train.

First Goldendoodle site on the internet

The Goldendoodle Web Site - www.goldendoodles.com - was the first website on the Internet to use the term Goldendoodle. It was created by Blue Sterling in early January 2001 along with the Doodle Discussion Forum to find other Goldendoodle owners and to pull together and provide resources for the community similar to the one the Labradoodles had at the time (forums, etc.) The term Goldendoodle was chosen instead of Golden Poo, so that a shared Doodle community could be created, a place where both Goldendoodle and Labradoodle Owners would be welcome.  A special 'Thank You' to Blue Sterling for some of the information found on this page and all you do for the Doodle community.

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks)

During the Toddler period, the doodle puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and littermates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and littermates until seven weeks of age.

Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks)

It is at this age that rapid learning occurs. At seven weeks, puppies can learn and what they learn will have a lasting impact. Everything he comes in contact with will make a lasting impression upon him as it never will again. Not only will he learn, but, he will learn whether he is taught or not. Though he has a short attention span, what things he learns are learned permanently and resistant to change. Therefore, owners need to be careful about what their puppies are learning at this time. Your puppy is very anxious to learn how you want him to behave and react, and he needs to be shown what is expected of him in his new role as your pet. There are rules you will expect your puppy to obey. Establish those rules NOW while behaviors are easy to establish. For instance, how your pet interacts with you are determined during puppy-hood. What he does now is what he will likely do later. So, don't allow your puppy to do things, which will be unacceptable when he becomes a dog.

During this time, you and your puppy will also begin to know and understand each other. You will get to know about your puppy's particular temperament and personality - whether he is strong-willed or eager to please, gentle or rambunctious, shy or outgoing, and just what else makes him the endearing individual that he is. For the puppy, this is both an exciting and somewhat confusing time. There is a whole new world of things to learn about and all sorts of new experiences to digest. Remember that the environments you put your puppy in are more complex than those he would encounter naturally. Puppies must now learn a new set of rules. He needs to know learn how to interact with humans and other animals who live with them. Puppies must adapt to the patterns and tenor of their new homes. All of these experiences and the behaviors, which accompany them, must be learned. Because you will impose such important demands on your puppy, you must help him to make the transition into the human environment. You need to lay groundwork for a trusting, happy mutually satisfying relationship. Keep in mind that puppies are less likely to broaden their experiences if they are insecure.

In natural environments, puppies approach new things cautiously. By giving your puppy brief, repeated experiences in new situations, you give him a chance to become familiar. If you don't expose your puppy to a variety of situations and new environments, inappropriate ways to adapt may be learned.

During the Socialization period, there is a fear imprint period from 8 - 11 weeks. During this time, any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences will have a more lasting impact on your pup than they would if they occurred at any other time. An unpleasant trip to the veterinarian, for instance, at this time could forever make your dog apprehensive about vets. To avoid this, take some treats and a toy with you. While you wait, play with your puppy and offer him treats. Have your vet give your puppy treats along with lots of praise and petting before and after the examination. Remember, dogs are social animals.

To become acceptable companions, they need to interact with you, your family, and other people and dogs during the Socialization Period. Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences with people and dogs. Therefore, you need to socialize and teach your puppy how to interact with people and other dogs in a positive, non-punitive manner.

You should gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments, and people. But, care must be taken in socializing your puppy with other dogs or in areas where many "unknown" dogs frequent, prior to the time that your dog has had three of its booster vaccinations against contagious diseases. Shopping centers, parks, and playgrounds are good places to expose him. Begin by taking your puppy when there are few distracters. Give him time to get used to new places. Make sure he is secure. If you have children that visit only occasionally, have your puppy meet children as often as you can. If you live alone, make an effort to have friends visit you, especially members of the opposite sex so that your dog will become accustomed to them. If you plan to travel with your dog, get him accustomed to riding in the car. Take him for brief rides, at first. Go someplace fun. Remember, if new experiences are overwhelming or negative, the results could be traumatic.

Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)

It is during this critical period that your dog will begin to test you to see who the pack leader is going to be. He'll begin to bite you, in play or as a real challenge to your authority. Such behavior is natural in the pack and not necessarily undesirable. What is undesirable is an inappropriate response on your part. It is important, at this stage, that you establish your position as pack leader, and not just another sibling. Other behaviors, such as grabbing at the leash, will be observed, and all are attempts to dominate you. Biting, in particular though, should always be discouraged. Therefore, you should not wrestle or play tug of war. Such play is aggressive-inducing. Your dog as a situation in which he has been allowed to dominate may perceive what you see as a fun game. Wrestling, of course, communicates to your puppy that he is allowed to bite you. Tug of war sets you up in a dominance confrontation over an object. He learns that he can keep objects away from you. During tug of war games, puppies will often growl. Growling is a dominance vocalization, designed to warn another pack member that they better not confront the growler or he will bite. Puppies see these games as situations in which they have been allowed to dominate. They do not understand that these are games designed by humans to entertain them. You can continue to play with your dog during this period, but, the relationship between you during the play must change. No mouthing of your body should be allowed and when your dog does mouth, you should respond with a quick and sharp "NO!" or "No Bite!" Play that does not get rough is best. If you cannot keep the dog from getting overly excited during a game and he persists in biting at you, don't play that way. This will only stimulate additional dominant behavior in the future. For these reasons, this is the stage when serious training should begin. Training establishes your pack leadership in a manner that your puppy will understand. By training your puppy, you will learn how to get him to respond to commands designed to show that you are in charge.

Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)

This is the age when puppies become more independent of their owners and are likely to venture off on their own. Puppies that have always come when called or stayed close to their owners will now ignore them, often running in the opposite direction. This period can last from several weeks to months. How you handle your puppy's refusal to come or stay with you will determine whether or not he will be trustworthy off leash. It is important to emphasize here that no puppy this young should ever be off leash except in a confinement area. Therefore, keep your puppy on leash when this period arises and keep him on leash until he readily returns to you or shows no inclination to leave you. The privilege of being off leash outside of a confined area, is reserved for dogs whose owners have trained them to the point where there is no potential for them to run and fail to obey to stop or come on command. Releasing an unleashed dog in an unconfined area that is not well trained off leash is irresponsible ownership and dangerous to your dog. Even well trained dogs can make mistakes or become distracted by something in the environment so that they do not respond to their owners' commands. So, how do you respond when your puppy suddenly develops the urge to bolt? First, you must, for his safety, put a leash or a long line on your dog whenever you are not in a confined area. Second, work hard on training your puppy to come on command. Use the recall game and the spontaneous recall. When walking your dog, suddenly run backwards and encourage your puppy to come. Even if the your puppy appears less inclined to bolt, this does not mean that he is reliable off lead without more maturity and a lot more training.

Adolescence Period (7 - 10 months)

Adolescence is a very difficult time for pet owners. They are surprised when their cute little puppy becomes a free and independent thinker. Adolescence is certainly a good time to start (or restart) rigorous training. You must work hard NOW to mold the dog of your dreams. You will need to learn about dog behavior and training techniques. This knowledge will help you to get through your dog's adolescence. A dog that you view as too stupid, too old or stubborn or too spiteful can become a well mannered, enjoyable, and reliable companion. Establish yourself as the leader of the pack. Be realistic about your expectations. You cannot expect young dogs to grow up overnight. Learn to appreciate your dog's adolescence for it is a truly wonderful time. At this time of their lives, dogs are very energetic and exuberant in their responses. They can be full of beans, but still, delightful playmates. You as the owner must learn to channel that energy and exuberance into learning, working, exercising, and playing games. It is not too late to train (or retrain) your dog to help him to become a long-lasting companion.

Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)

The Second Fear Imprint Period is similar to the one that occurred during the socialization period, but, it is much less defined. It occurs as dogs enter adolescence and seems more common in males. It is often referred to as adolescent shyness. Your dog may suddenly become reluctant to approach something new or suddenly become afraid of something familiar. This behavior can be very frustrating to the owner and difficult to understand because its onset is so sudden and, seemingly, unprovoked. If you notice this behavior, it is important to avoid the two extremes in response: Don't force him to do or approach something frightening to him and don't coddle or baby him. To get through situations that make your dog fearful, be patient, kind, and understanding. Desensitize him to the object or situation by gradually introducing him to it and using food rewards and praise to entice him to confront the fearful object or situation. Do not coddle or reassure him in any way that will encourage his fearful behavior. Do not correct him either. Simply make light of it and encourage him give him food rewards as he begins to deal with his fear better. Make sure you lavishly praise his attempts! This phase will pass.

Mature Adulthood (1 - 4 Years)

During this period your dog may again become aggressive and assertive. For instance, he may become more turf-protective, by barking when someone comes to the door. Temper his protective behaviors by teaching him how to accept strangers into your home. His friendly play with other dogs may escalate to fighting with other dogs. Teach you dog to ignore other dogs that he sees if he can't be friendly towards them. Take him to places where there will be a few dogs at first and train him there. Then, train him in areas with more and more dogs. Next, allow him to interact with non-threatening dogs. Puppies and bitches are good choices, if he is a male. Always praise his positive efforts to interact or if he displays no reaction. Gradually move onto male dogs. At bit of caution here, adult members of the same sex, no matter what animals’ species, tend to compete with one another. Putting together two strange adults of the same sex could result in a fight. Watch for behavioral signs of playfulness before allowing two dogs to play together. Also, be alert to the posturing of aggressive behaviors. Watch for circling behaviors, walking on toes, stiff tail wags, and tense facial expressions. Adulthood is also a time that your dog may again test your position as pack leader. If he does, handle him firmly, suspend any rough play that may be giving him the idea that he can dominate you, and continue with training. Additional classes or private help with training may be a wise investment. It can provide you with the structure and commitment to train him that you need at this time. Proceed with training in a matter-of-fact, no nonsense manner and your dog will become a reasonably obedient dog. Give him lots of positive attention for his efforts!