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This page explains the different Generation Goldendoodles we breed and everything else you should know about Goldendoodles.  Send us an email - [email protected] if you have any questions we can answer for you!  :)

Goldendoodle Generations

F1 Goldendoodle = Golden Retriever X Poodle - 50% Golden Retriever - 50% Poodle

The first generation (F1) Goldendoodle is the product of a Poodle crossed with a Golden Retriever. Most first generation Goldendoodles shed lightly.  Some can have moderate shedding.  F1 Goldendoodles are compatible for most families with MILD allergies.  We rarely have a curly coated F1 Goldendoodle.  They have straight to loose wavy gorgeous coats.

The pictures below are examples of our F1 Goldendoodles


F1B Goldendoodle = F1 Goldendoodle X Poodle - 75% Poodle - 25% Golden Retriever

The backcross (F1B) Goldendoodle is produced by crossing a F1 Goldendoodle with a Poodle. F1B Goldendoodles will have a higher success rate for non-shedding, and are recommended for families with moderate to severe allergies. The F1B Goldendoodle is 75% Poodle which makes this generation the most hypo allergenic of all the Goldendoodle generations we breed.

The pictures below are examples of our F1B Goldendoodles

 


F2 Goldendoodle = F1 Goldendoodle X F1 Goldendoodle - 50% Golden Retriever - 50%Poodle

F2B Goldendoodle = F1 Goldendoodle X F1B Goldendoodle - 62.5% Poodle - 37.5% Golden Retriever

The second generation Goldendoodle (F2 or F2B) is produced by crossing the (F1 X F1 = F2) Goldendoodle or a (F1B X F1 = F2B) Goldendoodle.  They also have a high success rate for non-shedding and are recommended for families with moderate to severe allergies.

The pictures below are examples of our F2 & F2B Goldendoodles


F3 Goldendoodle = F1B Goldendoodle X F1B Goldendoodle - 75% Poodle - 25% Golden Retriever

The third generation Goldendoodle (F3) is produced by crossing the F1B or F2 with another F1B or F2 Goldendoodle.  It has been our experience when breeding F3 Goldendoodles that a high number of puppies in the litter will be more prone to shedding, some are very retriever'ish with flat coats (see below), not the soft fluffy coats our doodles are known for.  Because of this, we rarely breed the F3 Generation.  If the retriever look is what you're looking for, please let us know.  We do have a waiting list for families that want this look.

The pictures below are examples of our F3 Goldendoodles

Click here to see all the different color Goldendoodles we offer!

Description -

The Goldendoodles ancestry along both parent lines is as hunters and water dogs. The physical appearance of the Goldendoodle runs anywhere from a shaggy-looking retriever to a curl-relaxed poodle, but usually it falls somewhere in between. The length when left unclipped grows to about 4-8 inches. The color of the coat can be cream, red, white, gold, apricot, chocolate, parti and black. Some Goldendoodles have a Standard Poodle as a parent, and are standard sized. Those with a miniature or a moyen Poodle as a parent are smaller. Like many poodle crosses, most F1 Goldendoodles have light shedding and most live easily with families with MILD allergies. Families with moderate to severe allergies often find that Goldendoodle backcrosses (F1B) or second Generation (F2B) Goldendoodles work well.

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Temperament -

Goldendoodles are an intelligent and obedient family companion. They are everybody's friend and devoted to their family. They are friendly towards children, other dogs and pets, and easy with strangers. They are social dogs, happiest when with people. Goldendoodles are likely to get into mischief and develop behavior problems if they spend most of their lives alone. Their intelligence, eagerness to please, and love of learning make them very easy to train. They are medium-to large sized family dogs with easy dispositions. 

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Price, Size -

$2500.00 ~ Our Standard Goldendoodles ~ 20" - 25" tall at the shoulder

$2500.00 ~ Our Medium Goldendoodles ~ 17" - 20" tall at the shoulder

$3000.00 ~ Our Smallest Goldendoodles ~ 15" - 17" tall at the shoulder

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Health Concerns -

As a hybrid cross they grow healthier and live longer than either parent line. The only genetic diseases they can be prone to would be those shared by both the Golden Retriever and the Standard Poodle. No Major Concerns. Minor Concerns - CHD, PRA, VonWillibrands, Elbow and patella disorders.  Suggested tests - hip and eye.

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Living Conditions & Exercise -

Goldendoodles require a moderate amount of exercise and their coats are generally low maintenance. They can live in the city or on a farm. They are social dogs and they are happiest when they are with people.

Life Expectancy -

About 13-15 years

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Grooming -

As a hybrid cross, Goldendoodles will inherit fur that looks retriever-like or poodle-like, but usually something in-between. Unclipped Goldendoodles will have hair about 4-7 inches long, shorter on the face and longer on the body, tail and legs. They require brushing every few days. Depending on how often the dog is groomed.  Clipped Goldendoodles are groomed several times a year. More info on grooming your Goldendoodle!

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Origin -

As the smaller poodle hybrids had been such a success in filling the niche for small, allergy friendly family pets, Golden Retriever breeders decided to try a breeding with a standard Poodle for a larger family pet. A Goldendoodle is a Golden Retriever and Poodle cross.  Goldendoodles are also called Golden Poos, Goldie Poos, or Groodles.  They have been bred in North America since the mid-1990.  The quick rise of the popularity of Goldendoodles is due to the dogs themselves. They are a most marvelous hybrid. Goldendoodles are a first generation cross, and as such they exhibit hybrid vigor. This is a phenomenon in animal breeding referring to the fact that the first cross between two unrelated purebred lines is healthier and grows better than either parent line. The hybrid cross between these two parent breeds is terrific family dogs, friendly, intelligent, affectionate and easy to train.

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First Goldendoodle site on the internet -

The Goldendoodle Web Site - www.goldendoodles.com - was the first website on the Internet to use the term Goldendoodle. It was created by Blue Sterling in early January 2001 along with the Doodle Discussion Forum to find other Goldendoodle owners and to pull together and provide resources for the community similar to the one the Labradoodles had at the time (forums, etc.) The term Goldendoodle was chosen instead of Golden Poo, so that a shared Doodle community could be created, a place where both Goldendoodle and Labradoodle Owners would be welcome.  A special 'Thank You' to Blue Sterling for some of the information found on this page and all you do for the Doodle community.

Moss Creek Goldendoodle merchandise in our Cafe Press store!

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Doodle Development Periods - Thank you Beth at IDOG for sharing this with us!

Your puppy will pass through many stages as he grows and develops. Many puppy owners are shocked, surprised or downright freaked out about the way that their cute little puppy is behaving. Just check of what stage of development the little guy (or gal) is in… explains a lot (like he isn’t crazy). Behaviors can be accounted for with these stages, but a lot of these behaviors are also not acceptable and you must train and lead the way.

The mother of your puppy will start the process by building the foundation. This responsibility will then be turned over to you. It can not be expressed enough times how important is for you to train and lead your puppy so that he will be a happy well adjusted member of your family for life.

 

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Puppy Toddlers Period (3 - 8 Weeks)
“Mom teaches dog manners”

During the Toddler period, the doodle puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. These lessons learned in the toddler stage are CRITICAL. Puppies removed too early tend to be nervous, tend to bark a lot, tend to bite simply because these lessons a mother and littermates usually provides were missed. Training problems and long-term behavior problems can often be attributed to a puppy removed from the litter much too soon.

Beginning at 3 weeks of age, what is going on:

The first lessons learned are dog specific behavioral patterns

    * They will learn various postures meanings and their affects to their mother and littermates.
    * They will learn how to bite and what it is like to be bitten.
    * They will learn what barking and other vocalizations mean and their uses.
    * They will learn how to establish social relationships with other dogs.

Beginning at 5 weeks of age, what is going on:

Vocalization and tempered activities (dog manners) usually are learned at approximately 5 weeks of age.

    * They will learn how to be submissive to the leader of the pack.
    * They will learn and refine additional postures, vocalizations and acceptable dog interaction behaviors.

What the Puppy’s mother will do:

The mother will growl, snarl and snap to communicate. With a few very clear signals and repetitions, the young puppy will learn quickly. At that point a mothers glare or low growl is all that is needed to keep a young pup in line. Littermates also learn clear signals of communication to each other.

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Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks) and First Fear Imprint Period (8-11 Weeks)
“Lasting impact, rapid learning”

Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical Socialization period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences. They need to be introduced to new things and begin the groundwork to a happy, well-adjusted dog.

Beginning at 7 weeks of age, what is going on:

    * Short attention spans.
    * Things learned are permanent and will be resistant to change.
    * Puppy will be eager to learn.
    * What he does and learns now, he will do as an adult.
    * Puppy’s temperament and personality will become more apparent.
    * Puppy will be transitioning his education from his mother to his human environment.

Beginning at 8 weeks and ending at approximately 11 weeks of age, what is going on:

    * Any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences can have a lasting impact.

What You Can Do:

    * Gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments and people.
    * Make experiences positive (provide treats or toys)
    * Don’t push your puppy into fearful situations – take things slowly and allow him to adjust and get use to the situation.
    * Do not let others push your puppy or be forceful with them.
    * Provide a secure comforting demeanor.
    * Teach the puppy you are there to protect and lead.

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Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks)
“You’re not the boss of me!”

The puppy has been in the home now for a few weeks. He has been watching you and the family very closely. He is picking up on human behaviors and reactions. He is learning the pecking order of the pack. As he observes and learns, he will then attempt to figure out where exactly he stands in the pack order, and to also see if moving up in the pack will work. After all, he knows who the “weak links” are and will start at the bottom and try to move right up the pack. How could such a cute little pup be such a pistol?

What is going on:

    * Puppy will begin to question authority.
    * Puppy will attempt to move himself up in the pack order.
    * Puppy will try to dominate.
    * Puppy will grab leashes
    * Puppy will try to determine what activities are going to be done and when.
    * Puppy may growl.
    * Puppy may put his mouth on you.
    * Puppy can often become over excited.

What you can do:

    * Learn how your actions and body language communicate to your dog.
    * Do not play aggressive games during this phase. (Tug or wrestling)
    * If puppy becomes over excited, growls or mouths you, you stop all activity.
    * Be very aware of how the puppy interacts with children – do not leave children unattended with the puppy.
    * Enroll in a puppy kindergarten class to redirect some of the energy.
    * Evaluate the whole family’s methods of interactions and corrections and make sure that all are consistent and clear.

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Flight Instinct Period (4 - 8 Months)
“Fly like an Eagle, into the wind”

Your cute little puppy has been following you around for weeks now. He has been aware of where you are and would stay pretty close. During this period that same cute little puppy will decide that he is ready to go solo and take off running quicker than lightening. During this time, teaching the puppy that he must stay close by or come when called is critical. The failure to do this will result in a dog that will not be reliable to come or to stay close by as an adult and very well could lead the dog into a life or death situation.

What is going on:

    * The puppy will become more independent.
    * A puppy that previously would never go very far, will venture off.
    * The Puppy will ignore commands to stay close or come.
    * How you handle refusal to come or stay will affect future reliability off leash.
    * Puppy will be clever in attempts to run around loose.

What you can do:

    * Leash on 100% of the time they are not in a confined area.
    * Never allow dog loose in an unconfined area. (Yes this is redundant to the above, so it must be pretty important for us to say it twice.)
    * Being off leash outside of a confined area is reserved for who have been well trained.
    * Enroll in training class that utilizes positive training techniques.
    * Reinforce and continue to train your puppy “come”.
    * Make coming a very positive experience.
    * Oh… and never allow your puppy to be off leash in an unconfined area.

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Adolescence Period (7 - 10 months)
“Welcome to the Teenage Years – Enjoy the Ride”

This is one of the most difficult times for pet owners. They are so surprised when their puppy turns into “devil dog” or “cujo”. This often is a time when many families start to worry that maybe they made a bad decision in getting a dog. Remember: you get what you put into it. You take the time right now to teach good habits, you will have the dog you always dreamed of for many years. This work will payoff.

What is going on:

    * The puppy will become a free and independent thinker.
    * The puppy will continue to review the pack order.
    * The puppy will be very energetic.
    * The puppy will be exuberant and enthusiastic.
    * They turn into clowns with teeth.
    * They will delight in learning new and fun things.

What you can do:

    * Appreciate the humor of it all.
    * Have you read the book The Dog Listener yet? It will help.
    * Understand that despite the behaviors it is your time to continue to train and reinforce the things you do want him to do.
    * Reaffirm the family pack order.
    * Be realistic about expectations (still very much a puppy in a big boy body)
    * Channel all that energy into positive learning experiences.
    * Continue with training classes; explore options for additional training opportunities.

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Second Fear Imprint Period (6 - 14 Months)
“Yikes! What’s up with that?”

You have a puppy that is full of beans, he runs around like a clown in search of his next show. But then, BAM, he refuses to walk down some stairs, he is shaking in the car, or he jumps at the sound of the neighbor’s music. Surprise! This is normal, but you must help your dog figure out how to deal with his fears or concerns. The skills of learning how to “shake it off and keep going” will be valuable to him for the rest of his life. It will also reduce the chances that the things he fears will not be permanently imprinted for life.

What is going on:

    * The puppy that was so confident will suddenly become reluctant to new things.
 
* This period can be subtle.
    * This period can come and go several times over this entire period.
    * It may appear to be unprovoked or unrelated to any specific occurrence.
    * Puppy can become frustrating to owners.
    * You may notice this behavior more in males.

What you can do:

    * Avoid extremes in your response (no anger or forcing or over comforting)
    * Be patient and understanding.
    * We aware of surrounding and potential triggers.
    * Work on desensitizing him with gradual introductions with rewards.
    * Avoid too much reassurance or coddling (which is a reward for this behavior)
    * Don’t over react or correct the fearfulness – just make light of it and encourage him to deal with his fear (work through the fear).
    * Praise with grand rewards for his attempts.
    * Your dog will take his clues from you, if you act frightened or concerned he will too.

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Mature Adulthood Development Period (1 - 3 Years)
“I shall protect thy kingdom!”

So the puppy is no longer an itty-bitty baby, his is pretty much fully-grown in height. He will begin to fill out a bit and develop more muscle tone. But, mentally, the dog is still working out some last details of his life and what it means to him. He IS a member of a pack and now begins to find that his turf is worthy of monitoring and protecting. Sort of sounds nice to have your dog be protective, but don’t fall for it. You do not want you dog to take over these responsibilities because in no time you too will be under the rule of the King Dog. Which can lead to aggressive behaviors, protective to the point of creating fear or actually harming someone or another animal as he protects. This is bad news, and often a reason a dog is taken out of the home or destroyed. So, don’t allow your dog to be the King of the Castle, assign him the role of court jester – he will be happier and so will your family.

What is going on:

    * The dog may become more turf protective.
    * Strangers may be greeted with barking.
    * Barking at noises, birds, cars, butterflies, pretty much everything he believe worthy of attention.
    * Playing with other dogs may escalate to fighting.
    * Same sex confrontations of other dogs can occur.
    * Once again, checking the pack order to see if he can move up.

What you can do:

    * Reinforce how to greet strangers into your home.
    * Teach your dog to ignore dogs he cannot be nice to.
    * Practice or reinforce dog manners (utilizing no threatening dogs)
    * Learn to read your dog and other dogs. (Circling, walking on toes, stiff tail wags, tense facial expressions – are the signs of aggressive behaviors)
    * Rally your family to review that the pack order is clear and very one is consistent with training and corrections.
    * Reward him for good behaviors.
    * Give that dog another job, therapy work, obedience classes, agility.

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*DIFFERENT COLORS - Click here to see all the different color Goldendoodles we offer!

*REFERENCES - Click here to read what our puppy owners think of their Moss Creek Goldendoodle!

*VIDEO - Click HERE for an amazing video one of our puppy owners made of their puppy pick up at Moss Creek -

*VIDEO - Charlee is growing up!  Video #2 - Click HERE

*VIDEO - Click HERE for another amazing video from one of our puppy owners picking up Chase at the airport!

*VIDEO - Click HERE for the video of our 2013 Spring Fling Romp by Charlee's parents!  :)

*VIDEO - Click HERE for the video of our 2014 Spring Fling Romp by Charlee's parents!  :)

*STORE - Moss Creek Goldendoodle merchandise in our Cafe Press store!

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